Posted by Sarah
Aug 27: Rendezvous at Redfish Lake
Sunday 12:30 pm rendezvous with Beau Baty from Wilderness Ridge Llamas is quite the llama drama reunion! Beau brings 5 new llamas and came to take Bono and Johnny home. What a ruckus when our "big boys" see their pals in the trailer. Johnny just wants to be in charge and when Beau unloads the 5 llamas, sniffing their butts, totally in their faces, so to speak, playing the big man on campus. Bono was excited but calm. Beau puts both Johnny and Bono in the trailer with hay to calm things down!
Aug 27: Rendezvous at Redfish Lake
Sunday 12:30 pm rendezvous with Beau Baty from Wilderness Ridge Llamas is quite the llama drama reunion! Beau brings 5 new llamas and came to take Bono and Johnny home. What a ruckus when our "big boys" see their pals in the trailer. Johnny just wants to be in charge and when Beau unloads the 5 llamas, sniffing their butts, totally in their faces, so to speak, playing the big man on campus. Bono was excited but calm. Beau puts both Johnny and Bono in the trailer with hay to calm things down!
Companions
We are also met by 3 folks joining us for the next ten days. Louise Noyes, who was with us in the Sawtooths, and Charlotte Unger and Reuben Perrin, great hikers but new to llamas. We form a car and truck llama caravan to the Livingston Mill to camp, have a tour, then in the morning, start our trail to the White Clouds.
We are also met by 3 folks joining us for the next ten days. Louise Noyes, who was with us in the Sawtooths, and Charlotte Unger and Reuben Perrin, great hikers but new to llamas. We form a car and truck llama caravan to the Livingston Mill to camp, have a tour, then in the morning, start our trail to the White Clouds.
Charlotte, Louise, and I are friends through backcountry skiing with Sun Valley Trekking's Powder Divas, and we've done other trips since. Louise was with us in the Sawtooths, Charlotte and I hiked the Haute Route in 2015 from Chamonix and Zermatt. Reuben is a legendary hiker with few places around Idaho and the world he hasn't trekked over the past 20 years. This is Reuben's first trip with Bob and me.
Livingston Mill tour with owner, Ron Swanson
Livingston Mill tour with owner, Ron Swanson
As background, the silver-lead-zinc deposits of the Livingston Mine were discovered in the White Clouds in 1882 and ore was taken out by pack train until 1922 when a road, a 200 ton Mill and 3 mile tram way were built. According to some reports, more than $2 million was extracted and in the late 1920's, Livingston Mine and Mill had the largest payroll of any mining site in southern Idaho even though the mine tunnels were located above 9,200 feet; the mill was at 7500 feet where we camped.
It has had various owners and only operated intermittently after 1929. Besides being a predominately silver mine, the Mine produced a little gold and a lot of lead and zinc.
It has had various owners and only operated intermittently after 1929. Besides being a predominately silver mine, the Mine produced a little gold and a lot of lead and zinc.
Elmer Swanson, Ron's father, bought the Mill and Mine in 1960 when Ron was about 8 or 9 years old. In 2008, the Mill became an EPA clean-up site, capping the mine tailings while maintaining the historic buildings.
Ron, who lives at the Mill during the summer, loves to share the mine's history, his philosophy of life, and give tours of the Mill site and his rock art cairns.
Ron enjoys visitors so for people going to the East Fork of the Salmon River, you should take the time and drop by.
I met him two summers ago when I saw him from the road working on his art cairns. I was interested in his rock art and the large TRUMP sign painted on the roof of an old mining building which serves as the gateway to the historic Mill site. I found him delightful and a real Idaho persona.
Now to the story of our wonderful llama companions.
Our 5 Llama Cast of Characters
Russell the Rascal is a contemporary of Johnny llama's and is, in equal parts, charming and a brat. He has "attitude" which he struts with the other 4 big boys who are definitely not enamored. Truly an independent spirit, he is cute and feisty! The number of small scars and his floppy ears indicate just a small percentage of of all the scraps he gets into with other llamas. But by day three, he is settling down, is cozying up to us for llama cookies, and we're enchanted.
I met him two summers ago when I saw him from the road working on his art cairns. I was interested in his rock art and the large TRUMP sign painted on the roof of an old mining building which serves as the gateway to the historic Mill site. I found him delightful and a real Idaho persona.
Now to the story of our wonderful llama companions.
Our 5 Llama Cast of Characters
Russell the Rascal is a contemporary of Johnny llama's and is, in equal parts, charming and a brat. He has "attitude" which he struts with the other 4 big boys who are definitely not enamored. Truly an independent spirit, he is cute and feisty! The number of small scars and his floppy ears indicate just a small percentage of of all the scraps he gets into with other llamas. But by day three, he is settling down, is cozying up to us for llama cookies, and we're enchanted.
Milton was with us in the Smokey mountains during our very hot July trip but left before we got to know him. Despite his ugly mug insert photo (Charlotte will adamantly disagree), Milton communicates very well. His saddle slipped a couple of times. He let Charlotte know immediately and then stood patiently while major adjustments occurred. He is steady, hardworking and seemingly unflappable.
Apple is still the Apple of my eye. He was with us in the Smokey Mountains also but now seems a little fat when compared to the other llamas. It is clear, however, that he enjoys the good life of lots of food and easy trails. Calm and surefooted, Apple keeps up but is not terribly energetic. Reuben has been leading him and feeding him. During dinner, Apple has no problem joining Reuben and asking for treats. Like all llamas, Apple can scratch his ear with his hind foot.
Timber is a talking llama, making mewing noises on most any occasion...when he is in a new spot, when he is hungry, annoyed, or whenever. Beau suggested that this may be the llama version of whining. He does not like to be left behind. I led him and often had him literally on my heels trying to catch up! Fortunately, Timber, like all the llamas, STOPs in his tracks going down steep slopes when I slip and fall. He doesn't keep walking and run over me while I take time to get up and dust myself off. By the way, steep downhills are not my forte.
Fred, the tuxedoed llama named for Fred Astaire, likes to be with Timber. To reduce the impact of 5 llamas at Walker Lake, we had two separate camps. Fred was not having anything to do with being away from Timber, got loose from his camp, joined us on his own, happy to be settled next to Timber. Fred dances over the rocks and is a strong team player. He became sore on our Smokey trek, so we put Louise's lighter load on him. So far, he has had no problems and is a delightful pal.
Aug 28: Livingston Mill to junction between Island and Goat Lakes
An easy first day with camp between Goat and Island Lakes.
An easy first day with camp between Goat and Island Lakes.
Aug 29-30: Walker Lake with a rest day hike through the Big Boulder Chain of Lakes
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Aug 31: A Short Day
The memorable event of this day is my slipping, landing hard on a granite rock and badly bruising my tailbone. Besides the pain, it has been tough deciding whether I should continue. The options are either a short hike out (hoping I can find someone to pick me up) or another 4 days of strenuous climbing and descents.
Considering the discomfort and the fact that the Livingston Trailhead is only 3 miles from our camp, I know that going out is the best option. The trailhead is approximately 2 1/2 hours from Ketchum -Sun Valley, with at least 10-15 miles on very bad dirt roads. Besides Heather who is not at her ranch, I have 2 other friends who live relatively close by. My friend, Colleen, who resides on the East Fork of the Salmon River is only 17 miles away. Amazingly, she received and responded right away to my message requesting help tonight. She said she would pick me up at noon. Polly also responded affirmatively but she lives at least 30-35 miles away, so Colleen got the nod.
I feel so lucky that friends are close by, that they read their e-mails, and are willing to change plans to help out!
Sept 1: Sarah's Retreat
I wave good bye to my pals and painfully start walking. Fortunately, I cross paths with Colleen and her two dogs at 11:30 am this morning on the trail looking for me. I am so happy and relieved to see her that I give her my day pack to carry out! It is smart to leave the trail to nurse my bruises and per Colleen's recommendations, I am spending considerable time soaking in the cold East Fork River. Resting and soaking are excellent remedies, particularly at Heather's East Fork Ranch. Thank you, Heather.
The memorable event of this day is my slipping, landing hard on a granite rock and badly bruising my tailbone. Besides the pain, it has been tough deciding whether I should continue. The options are either a short hike out (hoping I can find someone to pick me up) or another 4 days of strenuous climbing and descents.
Considering the discomfort and the fact that the Livingston Trailhead is only 3 miles from our camp, I know that going out is the best option. The trailhead is approximately 2 1/2 hours from Ketchum -Sun Valley, with at least 10-15 miles on very bad dirt roads. Besides Heather who is not at her ranch, I have 2 other friends who live relatively close by. My friend, Colleen, who resides on the East Fork of the Salmon River is only 17 miles away. Amazingly, she received and responded right away to my message requesting help tonight. She said she would pick me up at noon. Polly also responded affirmatively but she lives at least 30-35 miles away, so Colleen got the nod.
I feel so lucky that friends are close by, that they read their e-mails, and are willing to change plans to help out!
Sept 1: Sarah's Retreat
I wave good bye to my pals and painfully start walking. Fortunately, I cross paths with Colleen and her two dogs at 11:30 am this morning on the trail looking for me. I am so happy and relieved to see her that I give her my day pack to carry out! It is smart to leave the trail to nurse my bruises and per Colleen's recommendations, I am spending considerable time soaking in the cold East Fork River. Resting and soaking are excellent remedies, particularly at Heather's East Fork Ranch. Thank you, Heather.
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Before leaving the trailhead, Colleen and I detour to the Livingston Mill to look for Bob's Tenkara fly rod (MIA), possibly left the night we camped there, and to say hi to owner Ron Swanson. I have wanted Colleen to meet him before, but she was not particularly eager as Ron's mother had a reputation as being quite fierce, maybe shooting a gun on occasion when she was tired of people coming uninvited.
Some of Ron's East Fork neighbors give the Livingston Mill a wide berth as a result, and the large TRUMP roof top sign may deter others even more.
It is an enjoyable introduction for Colleen (no guns and good conversation) and a big plus to Colleen's rescue duty. Her husband, Ron, she feels, would also enjoy meeting him to share stories, philosophy, and history of the place.
Bob, Reuben Perrin, Charlotte Unger and Louise Noyes, plus 5 llamas are en route to Chamberlain Basin and are expected at Heather's on 9/3 or 9/4. Bob will be reporting on the map on his location each night....I hope.
Heather and her husband Ron (do you have to be named Ron to live on the East Fork?) arrive on 9/3 .at the Ranch. In the meantime, I get to enjoy this beautiful spot, read, nurse my aches, feed the horses, and get ready for the trail to Summit Creek across the Boulders.
Some of Ron's East Fork neighbors give the Livingston Mill a wide berth as a result, and the large TRUMP roof top sign may deter others even more.
It is an enjoyable introduction for Colleen (no guns and good conversation) and a big plus to Colleen's rescue duty. Her husband, Ron, she feels, would also enjoy meeting him to share stories, philosophy, and history of the place.
Bob, Reuben Perrin, Charlotte Unger and Louise Noyes, plus 5 llamas are en route to Chamberlain Basin and are expected at Heather's on 9/3 or 9/4. Bob will be reporting on the map on his location each night....I hope.
Heather and her husband Ron (do you have to be named Ron to live on the East Fork?) arrive on 9/3 .at the Ranch. In the meantime, I get to enjoy this beautiful spot, read, nurse my aches, feed the horses, and get ready for the trail to Summit Creek across the Boulders.